After eight years of renovations, this couple from Hasselt is renting out a centuries-old palazzo in Genoa. 

Joos Meesters 

HASSELT/GENOA 

Via di Canneto II Lungo in the northern Italian city of Genoa. Just a stone’s throw from the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, Geert Nies (58) and his wife Gerthy have their own floor in Palazzo Donghi. It is one of over a hundred Palazzi dei Rolli, the renowned city palaces from the 16th and 17th centuries that are part of the heritage of this Italian port city. Since 2006, 42 of these palaces have even been recognized as UNESCO World Heritage sites. “We bought it in 2016,” says Nies. “We used to travel regularly to Italy, but we mostly knew Genoa as the chaotic port city where you could catch the ferry. But around 2013, we stayed there for a few days and immediately fell in love. It’s a city that has everything. On one side, the sea; on the other, the Apennines.  

Genoa is over 2,000 years old and has a beautiful history. At the same time, it’s also a dynamic student city. We said back then: when we retire, we will live here.” 

Ballroom 

In 2015, their search began. With some luck, they stumbled upon Palazzo Donghi, a building from 1618 that was sold in the mid-17th century to the wealthy paper manufacturer Gio Antonio Donghi. The staircase, the inner courtyard with a fountain, and the frescoes on the ceiling still testify to that aristocratic history. “We were able to buy the first floor,” says Nies. “At the time, that was the so-called noble floor, where guests were received. When we bought it, there was a ballet studio set up there. It had already been on the market for a year. At that time, the palazzi weren’t in high demand. With their high ceilings, they were difficult to heat. But the architect we brought with us was immediately enthusiastic. He grew up in Genoa but had no idea that this palazzo with its beautiful frescoes even existed.”  

Geert and Gerthy were able to purchase their floor for the price of an average house in Limburg. “And since then, I estimate the renovation has cost about the same again. But in the end, it’s not too bad. Because today, such a floor is no longer within reach for an average earner.” 

 

Cherubs 

Palazzo Donghi may not be part of the UNESCO World Heritage site, but it is no less impressive. “Our floor is 300 square meters and is divided into two apartments and a suite. Two ceiling frescoes featuring cherubs are still completely intact,” says Nies. The facade is also currently being renovated. For the renovation, the couple from Hasselt enlisted architect Valter Scelsi. “He is also a professor at the University of Genoa and knows everything about the history of the palazzi. He combines the past with new elements, like custom-designed furniture. The furniture is made from warm rosewood, providing a contrast to the colder feel of the building, with its thick walls.” 

Now that the suite and one of the apartments are finished, they are being rented out to tourists. However, the renovation took longer than expected. “The architect initially thought it would take a year. But here we are, eight years later. It’s a listed building, so you need permits and studies for everything. I cursed regularly, but on the other hand, it was also fascinating to watch the result come together. We are very proud. Even the Italians congratulate us and say they didn’t know such a beautiful place existed on their street.” 

 

Famous Neighbor 

The suite with a king-size bed is available for rent starting at 235 euros per night in the low season. The False Mirror apartment is rented out from 160 euros per night. “We rent for a minimum of three nights and target people who love historical buildings and design.” The renovation of the third and largest apartment is not yet complete. “We plan to live there ourselves after we retire,” says Nies, who runs an engineering firm. “When that will be is still uncertain. I suspect we will spend more and more time in Genoa and eventually live there permanently.” 

If you’re considering spending a few nights in Palazzo Donghi, you might run into a famous neighbor. “The Dutch writer Ilja Leonard Pfeijffer (author of Grand Hotel Europa and Alkibiades) lives fifty meters away. Every time we’re in Genoa, we run into him at least once. My wife has even had a few books signed. Everyone in the city knows him. In Genoa, people are generally pretty low-key. Nobody wears a suit here. You can imagine Pfeijffer, with his classic suit and tie pin, standing out quite a bit.” (laughs)